制衣术语
公主袖
Rib cuffs 1/4‖ 3-neddle coverstitch straddling rib seam. 罗纹袖口冚1/4‖ 3针5线哈梭
Bodice lined 前后上胸驳幅
Applied kangaroo pocket – 3/4‖ popline banding at opening with zig-zag stitch. 袋口改为3/4‖人字织带 袋口顶和袋口底打枣
袋口车之字线,之字线要车过底
Turnback waistband with encased elastic 裤头反折,内加丈巾
1/4‖ lingerie elastic @ inside leg creates rouched effect 裤脚两侧内加1/4‖丈巾。裤脚有缩褶效果
drawcord stitching should not show on outside waistband. Attach drawcord to inside waistband only. 裤头绳只能固于内裤头,外裤头不能有间线
Oval to be centered across side sidem.ensure oval is straight and parallel to hem. 椭圆形车花需骑于侧骨正中,且平行于裤脚。
1x1 circular rib(on fold) waistband with light weight elastic encased inside (all the way around waistband). Rib is applied to garment via 1/4‖ dobble needle top stitch straddling seam. 1/2‖ twill tape acts as drawstring. Drawing exits at CF through (2) X 15MM mental gromments. Drawstring is tacked at CB for 7-16 and at side seams for 2-6X only should be tied and tacked at CF.
1X1罗纹裤头包丈巾。裤头与裤身之间间1/4‖双针骑骨线。裤头绳为1/2‖人字带。 裤头绳尾反折1/2‖双层并打枣。2-6X码裤头绳定于侧骨。7-16码裤头绳定于裤头后中。裤头前中为2粒15MM金属鸡眼。
1x1 circular rib(on fold) waistband with light weight elastic encased inside (all the way around waistband).waistband is applied via 1/4‖ 3-needle coverstitch straddling seam.5/8‖ double needle drawstring tunnel.1/2‖ twill tape as drawstring. Drawstring criss crosses over at CF & exits thru (2)15MM mental logo gromments spaced 1 1/2‖ apart. Drawstring is tacked at side seams. For 2-6X only drawstring should be tied into a bow & tacked at CF. finish ends of twill tape with 1/2‖ doublbe turnback & bartack.
1X1罗纹腰头,沿内腰头夹一圈丈根。腰头骨位冚1/4‖ 3针5线哈梭。腰头前中有2粒15MM有logo的金属鸡眼。距离为1 1/2‖,经鸡眼孔两边穿1/2‖的人字带,隧道高5/8‖,沿内腰隧道穿过的人字带到两侧腰骨钉死。鸡眼两边路露出的人字带打蝴蝶结。。。。(?)
Main hbody is cut on straight grain, flounce is cut on the bias 主身直纹裁,裙脚斜纹裁
Revise neck rib to be applied with 1/8‖ d.n.t.s. on the rib. 领捆沿领边辘上去后,在罗纹上面间1/8‖双针面线。 under arm seam & 2‖ on side seam 在夹底骨和侧骨(只冚落2‖于侧骨位)
Revised placket to be applied placket with s.n. box stitch at bottom. Top placket is faced w/ it.
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制衣术语
WL military twill fabric and backstitched. Bottom placket is lie stripe. 1 piece folded, cut on bias and clean finished w/ edgestitch. Top placket should measure 1‖ W; bottom placket should measure 3/4‖ W. At CF placket are (3) X 1BL buttons horizontal buttonholes.
修改筒做法。筒底改单针盒子线,车成四方形。面筒用原身布,而面筒贴用斜纹布。底筒用间条梭织布(要斜纹裁)。面筒1‖阔,面间边线要回针车。底筒3/4‖宽,面间边线。前筒针3粒钮,钮门开水平钮门。前筒要做到有起皱效果。
Folded 1X1 rib neckline
1/8‖dou nel top stitch on rib
罗纹领辘上去后在罗纹面上间1/8‖双针线
Woven shoulder panel applied at interior of garment with trunback and single needle top stitch (single needle top stitch will be exposed on exterior of garment). 斜纹布肩贴(内肩贴),脚折入后面间单针面线。(单针面线会露于裙的面上)
Armhole seam is finished with 1/4‖ double needle top stitch stranddline the seam. 夹圈骨位,1/4‖双针骑骨 Woven gusset 斜纹三角布贴
Tie stripe belt (cut on bias) with double D-rings as clousure. Belt is clean finished with trunback but no topstitching exposed on exterior of belt. There is woven canvas inside belt for stability. Belt is held in place with (1) crochet thread belt loops at each side seam. 斜线 帆布 用钩针编织 腰耳 Blindstitch 挑脚
(3)X bottons at concealed rugby placket. Face top placket with 1‖ twill tape applied via single needle edgestitch. Apply another layer of twill tape to top placket for concealed horizontal buttonholes & bartack twill tape to separate each buttonhole(bar tack should not show on outside of garment). At under placket is (2) layers of 1‖ twill tape applied via single needle edgestitch. At bottom of placket is box stitch with SN & W SNT faced in self.
前筒为蚊鸡筒,筒内的钮钉 ―X‖ 形线。面筒底落1”人字带,面间单针边线。筒贴也是落1”人字带,面开钮门,筒底由2层 1‖ 人字带车成。面间单针边线。筒底车成一个盒子型线,盒子里还有一个“W”车花。 Gathers at sleeve cap. 袖山打褶
(2) self applied gathered ruffles with baby hem & SNTS – top ruffle is 1 1/4‖ –bottom ruffle is 1‖ exposed.
两层原身布裙脚,做baby脚 第一层裙脚高1 1/4‖,第二层裙脚高1‖ Turnback waistband with 1/8‖ DNTS 裤:腰头脚边折入,面间1/8‖双针线 Chino woven collar 梭织布斜纹领 Drop waist seam 低腰骨位
Standard two piece banded woven chino rugby collar(faced in woven fabric) with 1/4‖ button with horizontal buttonhole at collar stand. Clean finish inside neck with 3/8‖ woven twill tape; edge stitching top and bottom edges.
2片型梭织领,领面间1/4‖单面线。下级领钮门横开。领骨落3/8‖织带做环口藏止口,顶边和底边间边线。上级领和下级领分开。 梳织领
Barry stitch at collar band. 领面间线
1X1 rib on fold set with overlock; 1/4‖ double needle straddle top stitch seam.
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制衣术语
袖口: 1X1罗纹对折及骨,袖底缩褶,骨位间1/4‖双针骑骨线
Concealed rugby placket. Face top placket with 1‖ twill tape applied via single needdle edgestitch. Apply another layer of twill tape to top placket for concealed horizontal buttonholes and bar tack twill tape to separate each bottonhole (bartack should not show on outside of garment)
前筒:暗筒,顶筒贴落1‖人字带,间单面线。顶筒另落1层人字带藏横钮门,钮门间打枣(打枣线不外露),底筒通过单面线落2层1‖人字带。
At bottom of placket is single needle rectangular rugby box with single needle ―W‖ stitch(faced in self)
底筒间单面矩形盒仔线,盒仔线里落―W‖形线迹
Exposed lined yoke on shoulder, due to the lined yoke fabric is loosed cuasing lined self fabric is hsowing on shoulder, please do under fabric should smaller than top fabric above 1/8‖ to avoid showing on sample.
肩位布太厚,导致肩位上翘,肩位内层布应比外层布小1/8‖ Gathers turnout bodice衫身有缩褶效果
Separate skirt panel is seamed on to dress bodice to form smocking @ drop waist.start top row of elastic thread 1/8‖ below skirt/WB seam. Space remaining (4) rows 1/2‖ apart for size 4 & 5/8‖ apart from size 10.
裙身接缝于衫身。距裙骨下1/8‖处车第一条打缆线。4个码打缆线间距为3/8‖
Loosed thread stitch on all overlock seam, need increase density stitch on bulk to avoid raw edges on sample.
所有及骨车线太松,请加密线的密度。
Incorrect constrution on curtain on 2nd skirt. The bottom ruffle S/B gathered into curtain. 摆裙第二层做法不正确,要求破骨后再打褶车接口。
CF is hiking up above 1/4‖, please drop 1/4‖ from shoulder to reblance on bottom. 前中起吊1/4‖,请从肩位至裙脚降低1/4‖ Inside smocking lining s/b cut smaller 担杆内里需改小一点
Lined smocked yoke with 3/8‖ self 1ply ruffle with mini rolled zig zag stitch at 1/8‖ hem. 担杆打榄,担杆底落1条3/8‖原身布荷叶边,荷叶边脚口间Z型线 Hem is even and vented
裙脚前后幅长度一致并有脚叉
Clean finish neck seam with 3/8‖ jersey taping. 内领车3/8‖阔平纹领带
2pc hood with twill tape at inside CTR(center) hood seam with straddle stitch-self applied turnd hood seam.
帽由2块布车缝而成,帽内加织带,帽内中骨间骑骨线,帽边为原身布反折。
Applied pockets with turnback edges & SNTS-pocket hem with self banding applied with SNTS-pocket is slouchy/gathered
袋边、袋底反折间单针间线,口袋有慵松效果。 Picot stitch 狗牙边
Batiste taping 薄织的麻布 Shirring 装饰性的褶边
Make sure the shirring on pocket seam, the shirring should do consisten on both side pocket seam. 左右袋口打习须对称,均匀
Grain line off on left side pocket
8
制衣术语
左袋布纹不正确
Slightly puckering on CB hood seam 帽中骨人字带有轻微起皱 Slant 倾斜
Ensure banding is applied with double turn back edges toward inside so binding is completely clean finished at interior.
花边蕾丝内折以确保完全环口 Overlock on the inside. 夹圈锁边
Finish hem with turnback and break open stitch. The break open stitch at the hem is when the hem is turned back towards interior once, then this is folded back once the other way and both of these layers are coverlocked at the inside. Then is pulled apart to expose little vetical uneven stitches on the exterior.
原身布衫脚内折且挑脚(挑脚线外露)。衫脚内折车锁边线。外露的挑脚线为垂直方向。
The fullness of the bottom sweep has to be evenly distributed in the whole panel. Slash an open evenly as marked fo even fullness. This applies for both front and back panels.削减 Miter binding at shoulders 花边接口为斜接口,接口与肩走前对上 Fly front closure at CF with 3G mental zipper. Fly front has a single needle ―J‖ stitch and horizontal bartack at bottom of ―J‖ stitch and horizontal bartack at bottom of ―J‖ stitch. 门襟用3号金属拉链,前浪链排外有―J‖形单针间线。
(2) darts at back that begin at waistbands top edge. 后裤头下有2打褶。 Mesh 珠地布 网布
Please cover all hems w/coverlock stitch to avoid raw edges. 所有骨位须习骨,不能散边
Make sure the shirring at sleeve cap should do consisten on both side sleeve cap. 请确保左右袖缩习对称
Side seam dipping above 1/8‖ cuasing front/back bottom hem is hiking up, please re-balance paper pattren to avoid hiking.
侧骨容位1/8‖,导致前后幅衫脚起吊。
Needs to clarify with NY On below POMs since ―across chest‖ is bigger than ―across back‖ which is against normal grade rule:
下点需同美国确认,因为尺寸表上前胸阔大于后胸阔,不合常规。
Per reference sample: Slv opening + Bttm sweep firstly overlock & then turn back with 1/4‖ DNTS; PPS missing the overlocking along both edges = should add it back for bulk
上季船头办袖口好衫脚是先及骨再冚线的,单PP办袖口和衫脚及骨线,大货生产时请跟回。 Adjust main label thread tension frm stitch thru at CB bodice sided 主唛的线松紧度需调节,大货身材时避免衫身露唛头线。
collar knit collar w/jersey tape vertical folded jersey neck tape, edge stitch sides over neck seam w/top of stitch on seam frm placket edge to placket edge, edges let into placket. 及上扁机领,后领落平纹做领带,上下间边线
Placket one piece continuous placket facing one piece clean finish fold placket; edge stitch on plkt; edge stitch on placket folded edge; LT. WT. tricot interfacing.(one side only); single needle stitch across bottom edge of placket at inside top layer only.
原身褶入做筒,筒边间边线。筒底间四方形盒仔线,筒开横钮门及打2粒14号胶钮。
9
制衣术语
Sleeve hem/cuff flat rib edge stitch 及上扁机袖咀,面间边线
leg opening open hem single turn hem back;1/8‖ double needle topstitch; 脚口原身褶入,面坎1/8‖ 双针线 inseam snaps set snaps & snts. 内浪打14粒唧钮4粒
Seam allowance merrow closed 3/8‖ 及骨止口3/8‖阔
Please engineer stripe at armholes to match body stripes 对间要求,侧骨对间,袖与衫身对一点 Strip placement 起间位置
Trim comments:
Please be aware that All TRIMS i.e., snaps, buttons, rivets etc. must be applied to an even fabric foundation. The seam allowance must be adjusted so that all prongs, grippers, and shanks penetrate the same number of fabric layers. This will comply with our safety pull test requirements.
3/8‖ jersey taping @ back neck
扁机领,内领骨落3/8‖ 平纹捆条;扁机袖咀
Classic applied polo placket w/(2)X16L buttons
前中面筒用原身布,底筒用撞色原身布,内落朴,筒落2粒16号胶钮 1/2‖ flat knit rib trim @ sleeves TBD graphic @ wearer’s left chest 穿起计,左胸车花,碟号 F753
Diagonal pieced stripe w/s.n edgestitch 2’/2‖ wide for 2-6X 前幅有撞色拼布,阔2-1/2‖ ,面间单针边线 Uneven hem with 1/8‖ DNTS 前短脚,面间1/8‖双线 #3 appliqué at wearers CB
后中领骨下2‖ 有“3”字贴布车花
C.V.C = chief value cotton
C.V.S = chief value synthetic 主要成份为人造纤维 C.V.W = WOOL C.V.L = linen 亚麻
扭度spirality 汗渍牢度colorfastness to perspiration 抗起毛起球pilling resistant 斜纹skewness 缩水率dimensional stability to washing
洗水方法
1.普洗(GARMENT WASH) 2.石洗(STONE WASH)
3.酵素洗(ENZYME WASH)酵素石洗(ENZYME STONE WASH)。 4.砂洗(SAND WASH)
5.化学洗(CHEMICAL WASH)化学石洗(CHEMICAL STONE WASH)
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